Do Passion Twists Damage Your Edges? How to Wear Them Without Thinning Your Hairline

Passion twists, mucho passion. But your edges deserve some love too, homegirl.

You saw them on your timeline and you knew. Those soft, curly, a little messy on purpose passion twists. Light. Bouncy. Giving vacation even if you are just going to Target.

So you booked the appointment. Six hours later you walked out looking like a whole summer album cover. Then about two weeks in, something felt off. Your temples are sore when you tie your hair up. There is a ring of little bumps along the front. And in the bathroom mirror, the hair at your edges looks thinner than it did before the install.

So let's talk about the question you typed into your phone at midnight: do passion twists damage your edges?

Here is the honest answer. Passion twists do not have to hurt your hairline. But the way a lot of us get them installed and wear them, tight at the root, tiny at the front and pulled up into a high bun every day, can pull your edges back. The good news? Almost every one of those things is in your hands.

What Passion Twists Actually Are

Passion twists are a two strand twist style made with a silkier, wavy braiding hair, often a water wave type, instead of the kinky hair used for Senegalese twists. That silkier hair is what gives them that loose, boho, undone look. Miami stylist Kailyn Rogers is credited with creating the style in 2018, and it has been everywhere since.

They can be installed two ways. Some stylists twist the added hair into each section of your own hair, one by one. Others cornrow your hair and crochet pre twisted hair onto the cornrows. Either way, your own hair is holding up extra hair. And your edges are the finest, most delicate hair on your whole head.

Not sure if your edges are just tired or really thinning? Take the free Find My Edge Routine quiz and get a routine matched to your hairline.

Why Passion Twists Can Pull on Your Hairline

The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) warns that hairstyles that pull on your hair over and over can lead to traction alopecia, which is hair loss from pulling. Braids, extensions and weaves are on their list. A Johns Hopkins review of 19 studies put braids, locs, weaves and extensions in the highest risk group, especially on chemically straightened hair. Passion twists are an extension style, so the same rules apply.

Here is where passion twists usually go wrong.

1. Extra tension at the root

To get that rugged, curly look, some stylists twist with more tension than usual. That might look cute on day one. But a tight base on your front row is a lot to ask of baby hair.

2. Tiny twists around your face

Small twists at the front look neat. But a small twist means fewer of your own strands are holding up the same amount of added hair. Small parts plus long length equals a heavy bill for your edges.

3. Long length and bulk

Waist length passion twists are gorgeous. They are also a lot of hair. The AAD says to keep braids short because longer hair is heavier and pulls more.

4. The high bun every single day

Passion twists piled on top of your head? Stunning. But a high bun gathers all that weight and hangs it from your hairline. Do it daily and your edges never get a day off.

5. Keeping them in too long

We know you want your money's worth. But old twists collect buildup, your new growth tangles at the root, and the takedown gets rougher. The AAD suggests wearing braids for no longer than 6 to 8 weeks.

Signs Your Passion Twists Are Too Tight

The AAD says to change your style right away if you notice any of these:

• Pain from hair that is pulled tight
• Stinging on your scalp
• Crusts on your scalp
• Tenting, where your scalp gets pulled up at the root like a little tent

Also watch for small bumps along the front and short, broken hairs at your temples. If pain, bumps or smooth bare patches stick around, see a board certified dermatologist. The AAD notes that traction alopecia can become permanent the longer it goes on, so early is everything.

How to Wear Passion Twists Without Losing Your Edges

Before the install: come in soft, not crunchy

Dry, brittle edges snap faster when they get twisted and pulled. Wash, condition, and use a leave in so your hair has some give before anybody touches it. Then keep that moisture going while the style is in.

In the chair: ask for these four things

• Bigger twists at the front. Medium or large around your face, even if the back is smaller.
• Shorter length. Shoulder or bra strap length is kinder to your roots than waist length.
• A gentle base on the perimeter. Ask for the rugged look to come from the hair, not from extra tension at your hairline.
• Leave your baby hairs out. Thin edge hair was not built to hold a twist plus extensions.

Going the crochet route? It can be lighter, but tight cornrows underneath can still pull. The AAD says to make sure cornrows are not tight. If you are torn between passion twists and faux locs, read Do Faux Locs Damage Your Edges? before you book.

While you wear them: switch it up

Wear them down more days than up. When you do put them up, go low and loose, and move the bun around so the weight is not always in the same spot. At night, tie them in a loose pineapple and sleep in a satin bonnet or on a satin pillowcase, with the band behind your hairline, not on it.

Your scalp still needs attention under all that hair. A couple of times a week, put a few drops of a light oil on your fingertips and give your hairline a slow, gentle massage. Fingertips, not nails. No digging.

Lay your edges soft, not snatched

A laid edge with passion twists is a whole look. Just do not use edge control to drag your baby hairs back toward a tight bun. Use a small amount, a soft brush and light strokes. Then gently wash it off on wash day so it does not build up at the root.

Takedown day: slow and soft

Takedown is where a lot of edges get lost. Cut the added hair just below where your own hair ends, never higher. Mist the base with water and leave in, then unravel each twist with your fingers. Detangle the new growth at the root before you ever pick up a comb. We break it all down in Takedown Day: How to Get Braids Out Without Taking Your Edges With Them.

Give your edges a break between installs

Do not go straight from one set of twists to the next. The AAD says to switch up your hairstyle regularly so your hair can recover. A few weeks in a low tension style gives your hairline room to breathe.

How Long Until Your Edges Look Better?

Honest answer: it depends on how long the pulling went on and what else your scalp is dealing with. Nobody can promise you a date. A Johns Hopkins dermatologist put it this way: traction alopecia is preventable, and early action can stop or reverse it. So take the tension off first, stay consistent, and take a photo of your hairline every few weeks in the same light so you can see the real story.

FAQ

Do passion twists damage your edges?

They can, but they do not have to. Passion twists are an extension style, so they add weight and tension to your roots. Tight bases, tiny front twists, long length and daily high buns put the most stress on your hairline. Bigger front twists, shorter length and a gentler install lower the risk.

How long should I keep passion twists in?

The American Academy of Dermatology suggests wearing braids for no longer than 6 to 8 weeks. Keeping extension styles in longer adds buildup and makes takedown rougher on your edges.

Are crochet passion twists easier on edges?

Crochet installs can be lighter, but the cornrows underneath still need to be loose. Tight cornrows pull on your hairline no matter what is attached to them.

Should I leave my edges out of passion twists?

Leaving your baby hairs out of the front row is a gentle choice. Thin edge hair was not built to hold a twist plus added hair.

What should I do if my passion twists hurt?

Pain means the style is too tight. The AAD says to remove extensions right away if they cause pain or irritate your scalp. If pain, bumps or bare patches stick around, see a board certified dermatologist.

Sources: American Academy of Dermatology, "Hairstyles that pull can lead to hair loss" (aad.org); Johns Hopkins Medicine via EurekAlert, review of hairstyles and traction alopecia published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (2016); Allure via Yahoo, "Everything You Need to Know About Passion Twists." Photo: Ekaterina Bolovtsova via Pexels.

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